1/6/2023 0 Comments Step 2 mailboxEven and experienced mason will lose some. We show bricks being "broken" to the correct length with a brick hammer, this is something that takes practice, you can try it but be prepared to break a lot of bricks into unusable pieces. This step will require the cutting of some bricks. When you have reached 40" set your mailbox at the top and invision what your finished mailbox will look like. This is a postal standard (so that the mail man can reach the mailbox from the car) be sure to check with your local post office for regulations in your area. Continue building up, adding your center bricks every few courses, until you are approximately 40" from the top of the curb. This part will not be seen so there is no need to smooth mud ect. When you reach course 5 start putting mud into the center of your square and build up the center with brick, mud, bricks, mud, 2 bricks wide. You don't want thousands of pounds of bricks and mortar falling on someone. This is not only unsightly but it could also be dangerous. Check level, square and plum for EVERY course so that you do not get a leaning mailbox. You also need to make sure to plum each side, do this by putting your level verticle against your brick and gently tapping to be sure all is lined up correctly, do this to each side and corner with each course. You want approximately 3/8" joint between courses and between bricks (bed joints horizontal and head joints vertical) Congratulations, you've just layed the first course of your new mailbox! Now continue up to the next course by spreading mud and laying down a new course of brick, level, square, continue.Ĭontinue adding layers of mortar and brick checking level around the top gently tapping bricks into place and using your trowel to "slice" off the excess mud that squeezed out when you did so, also making sure to check each corner for square. To double check the square, measure the distance diagonally with a tape measure, both measurements should be equal corner to corner. Next level from corner to corner, then use your square to check the corners, gently tapping the brick with the handle of the trowel to move them slowly. Keep going all the way around your course leveling and tapping until you have done your first corner over again. Begin laying bricks atop the mud (don't push them down too far at first, it's better to have too much mud under them before leveling, than not enough, too much and you can tap them down removing the excess squeezed out mortar with your trowel, too little mud and you have to remove the brick, relay your mortar and basically start over) Lay each brick on the course before using the level at the end, start from your first corner layed and level each side all the way around in a circle, gently tapping the top of the level with the handle of your trowel to get each brick to "settle" downward. Spread mud around the edge of your base (two blocks) using your trowel be sure to spread the mud out to the edge of the block about the width of a brick. (only two at this point because you don't want your mortar to set up (harden) before you can use it) Pour in water per package instructions and begin to mix with a shovel until the consistency of heavy oatmeal and there are no more dry particles. Open 2 of the 6 bags of Quickrete Mortar mix (containing sand) and pour them into your wheelbarrel. The next thing to do, is to mix your mortar. Step 2 mailbox how to#Next you will pour the 40lb bag of Quickrete cement mix into the hole (both inside the block holes and around the outside of the blocks), pour in the water per package instructions and mix with your trowel (add gravel or rocks to this mix as you go to bring it up to the level of the top of the block)ĭry fit (called dry bonding) the first two courses of bricks, alternating the stacks so you know how to lay them down. Now drive your rebar through each of the four holes of the block into the ground leaving 4-5" sticking up above the ground inside the holes. Place the two block inside and use your level to make sure they are both level front to back and side to side, you can push rocks or dirt underneath here and there to adjust level as needed. Enough to fit the two block in side by side and as level on the bottom as you can make it. You hole needs to be 8" deep by 16"x16" or a little larger. We had to remove an old masonry mailbox that had been ceremoniously destroyed by the back bumper of car. After you have decided where to put it you will have to dig a hole. The First thing you will need to do is figure out where you want your mailbox, consult with your local post office to find out what the regulations are, how close it should be to the curb, how tall the mailbox should be ect.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |